Sri Lanka

Whether you're here for it's beaches, ancient history or just experiencing a new culture, Sri Lanka has the ingredients that make you want to stay longer. With a little under 4 weeks, we set out to explore this tiny country with open minds and open hearts. There is a history here, one that is as dark as a thunderstorm cutting out all sunlight. The civil war that lasted over 30 years finally came to an end in May of 2009. It was a bloody battle that was seen on news channels across the world. Along with the devastation that comes with any combat, in 2004 the east coast of Sri Lanka was hit hard by the tsunami that left its mark through out SE Asia. In Sri Lanka, its estimated that the tsunami reached 2km inland wiping out everything in its path. After knowing some of the recent tragic events in Sri Lanka, we were pleasantly surprised to find the people to be some of the warmest, friendly and happiest out of any country we had been to so far.

With the end of our trip looming overhead we decided to take a new approach and move often in order to see as much as we could. We spent 2 days in Negombo, (on the west coast) getting orientated and mapping out a very non committal route for our next few weeks.

Sri Lankan sail boat.

Soccer on the beach.

On the move.

Our first stop was inland to one of Sri Lanka's most famous tourist spots. Sigiriya. It's an ancient rock core of a volcano, towering 600 ft in height. The history says that a prince killed his father, the King, and moved the capital city to Sigiriya and fortified the rock. His reign was short lived though only from 477-495AD, before the rightful heir to the throne, (his older brother) finally conquered him in battle. There is a cave on the way to the top that you pass through. Inside are frescoes dating back to 3BC! They are the oldest and best preserved we have seen on this trip. No one knows what substances were used to mix the paint, and due to them being protected in the cave, they are in great condition. About half way up is what is assumed to be the gateway to the capital. Two massive lion paws are situated with a staircase in between, which leads up to the very top. Hence it's name Sigiriya, meaning 'Lion Rock.' The capital was abandoned after the kings death and later was used as a Buddhist monastery. It is now a UNESCO world heritage site. We hiked all the way to the top and enjoyed the breathtaking 360 degree views.

Happy we didn't have to use the old steps. 

On top of the rock.

Massive swimming pool at the top. Still full of water. 

We continued west and situated ourselves in the small town of Habarana, 41km from Kaudulla National Park. We were so excited to go on an elephant safari. We have had a lot of luck seeing animals so far on this trip, with the minor exception of the Pygmy Elephants in Borneo. Our 2nd attempt to see elephants in the wild could not disappoint. And it did not!!! We saw approximately 100 elephants in 2 different herds. We don't think the smiles left our faces...even when our jeep got stuck in a giant mud puddle.

Getting rescued from a giant mud puddle.

Sri Lanka is hot and after a few days away from the sea, we were once again ready to find some beaches. We made our way to the west coast of the island and beach hopped our way south. The seas are a bit ruff and not ideal for swimming at this time of year. This was not a problem for us. It meant that we were always the only ones on long, beautiful stretches of sand. We couldn't have been any happier with what felt like our own little piece of private beach paradise.

In a last minute decision (on the advice of other travellers), we abandoned our idea to continue south along the coast and back tracked in land to the ancient ruins of Polonnaruwa. We love exploring ancient lost cities and temples, and on two peddle bikes, that's exactly what we did. The ancient ruins were first established in the 11th century and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They perhaps were not as well preserved as other ruins we have seen but were equally beautiful and captured our imagination just the same.

Medicinal bath tub in the hospital. 

A four hour bus ride to Kandy in the centre of Sri Lanka was next. Our main reason for heading there was to catch the famous train that runs through the inner hills of Sri Lanka, to the chilled out hill town of Ella. We both really wanted to take the train, as we had heard that it is one of the most famous train rides in the world. Boasting some majestic views of mountains and tea plantations. We spent 1 day in Kandy taking in a cultural show and eating samosas around the lake. After complete pandemonium to get on the train, Dean was able to get us two seats. The train ride did not disappoint and the views were breathtaking.

Kids eager to wave to us from a passing bus.

Pine trees that reminded us of home. 

Ella is a small touristy hillside town with some magnificent views. Most people come here for hiking or to visit one of the many tea factories. Did you know that Sri Lanka produces 10% of the tea consumed around the world? In the end we never did visit a tea factory. But we did drink a lot of tea at our guesthouse, which had a fabulous view of Ella's Gap and Ella's Peak. We took a long walk along the train tracks to the famous 9 Arch Bridge,where we unfortunately, missed the viewing of the train crossing by about 20 min. We also did a hike up Little Adam's Peak, where we had fun taking photos of ourselves in a spot that felt like we were 'on top of the world'. Our guesthouse was something special that we will always remember. There was only one room and the family really treated us like honoured guests. It was such a privilege to stay there.

Breakfast with a view at our guesthouse.

Sadly, our time in Ella had to come to end and we headed south to spend our final days on...yes, you guessed it...a few more beaches. Our first stop was at the small coastal town of Mirissa. It is famous for it's whale watching tours. Of course, how could we say no to a chance to see the worlds largest mammal, the Blue Whale! The tours are famous for their 'promise to see a whale, if not, money back guarantee.' Well, they weren't giving us our money back. After nearly 6 hours on the boat and spotting 2 large dolphin pods, we finally saw a glimmer of what we had been looking for.  Within the dark blue waters emerged a very large shape, changing the water around it to a light turquoise. Just below the surface was the giant mammal we had been so eager to see. Within minutes it breached. Of course, they are so big we only saw it's back but let us assure you that was amazing in itself. It was huge!! We watched with amazement as it swam along side our boat for about 10 minutes, breaching and blowing 4 more times. In, what seemed like a mutual arrangement between the whale and the guides, it went left and we went right. It was a beautiful way to say goodbye and almost felt symbolic to us parting ways with our year long adventure.

Our very last stop was the beach town of Unawatuna. We found a room with a huge balcony over looking crystal clear waters. We only had to walk out the door to go swimming and snorkelling and spent our last 3 days doing just that. From there it was time to head to the airport for our final flight....home! We can honestly say that journey was done with very mixed emotions.

We loved this tiny tear drop shaped island, there is so much to see and do here. Sri Lanka charmed us immediately and never let go. From friendly strangers on the bus, to the fabulous guesthouse owners. The country was clean and beautiful and everywhere had the most fantastic tea sets. The whole trip we didn't book a room ahead, we just showed up and asked around. It was very easy to do and we managed to stay in the best places. We will definitely be putting it on our list of countries to one day return to. It was a great place to finish off our trip.

Tuk tuks are not very big.

A mosquito net is a must in Sri Lanka.

First time having an orange coconut. Very sweet and refreshing.

Typical Sri Lankan meal. Rice and Curry. Cheap and very filling.

Sri Lankan currency. Rupees.

Who would have thought a year would have gone by as quickly as it did?!? We set off with some big aspirations and goals. Little did we know exactly what we were in for and how amazing our time would be. We have 1 more blog to write. A wrap up of this past year.  Feelings, thoughts and experiences of what has come to pass. Hopes, dreams and goals for our future. We hope you will stay tuned for our last entry of what really did....Go By In A Blink!!!