Myanmar (Burma)

      Three weeks in Myanmar! We didn't have any idea what we would encounter. But when we arrived we were met by 1000 watt smiles from K&D Tours. They were excellent guides in a country they did not know. We always had more than a fun adventure when we went biking or boating. I have never laughed so hard as when I hit a large sign with my electric bike. Not sure which was scarier - riding our bikes at night in traffic with no headlights or riding on a night bus with a full moon and seeing the road conditions, the traffic and the drop offs! We ate juicy watermelon and oranges. They grow the largest avocados here! Such a different, memorable holiday. Glad to be with our kids for some of their year adventure.      -Susan Gould

       9 Months in.. still going strong! We arrived in Myanmar with high expectations of being transported back in time (metaphorically). For the last 40 years, Myanmar has been under strict military rule and due to the large amount of human right infractions, governments from around the world have placed heavy sanctions against this country. In 2010 the military government shocked the world by disassembling their power and allowing the country to vote through democratic elections. Only recently have tourists been allowed to enter and still today, many areas are closed off to them. With the dawn of a new era, big changes are on the horizon for this country.

        We arrived in Yangon a day before Dad and Mom (Bruce and Susan). We were so excited to see them, we showed up to the airport a day early to pick them up! Yet again, we went to pick someone up a day early. We all settled into the city for 4 days to allow Mom and Dad to get adjusted. They were lucky, as we found this country to be quite cool in comparison to the others we have visited. We wandered the streets and alleys, enjoying the views of the many colonial buildings. We spent an evening staring in awe at the beauty of the setting sun reflecting off the century old golden pagoda, Shwe Dagon. We ate food till our stomachs were content and drank the coldest of cold beer. Food, thankfully, was delightfully cheap. Since the flocks of tourists have started to arrive, hotels have sky rocketed their prices in order to extract the utmost cash. This was a shock to us as most places we have been to have been relatively cheap. It was so expensive, that half our of daily budget was going towards accommodations.

Inside Shwe Dagon Pagoda.

     We arrived in Bagan after a long 12 hour bus ride from Yangon. With the dawn of the next day, we arose with excitement for what the day would bring. Bagan area dates back to the 11th century. During the height of the kingdom, there stood an estimated 10 000 temples and pagodas, today roughly 2200 still remain. The surrounding area is very flat and many pagodas can be seen from all directions. We rented electric scooters and were off on our adventurous day. Down the roads and across fields of dirt paths. We enjoyed our time creating our own way as we played Indiana Jones throughout the ruins. Kelly and Susan were a little nervous about driving their own e-bike, but it was either that or we rent peddle bikes. We found a great little restaurant for lunch and as we were leaving, Susan lost control of her bike and drove straight into the restaurant sign. We have never seen her laugh so hard. For the sunset we climbed high on the outside of a pagoda. It was a beautiful way to end the day. Unfortunately, the headlights on our scooter weren't working, so our 45 min drive back to the hotel, through traffic, was done in darkness. We spent one more day exploring Bagan before we jumped aboard a boat for a 13 hour sail up the Irrawaddy River to Mandalay.  It was a relaxing way to spend a day. The scenery didn't change at all, but we got a great look into how much the river is used for transportation and irrigating farm fields. We spent 4 days in Mandalay, about 3 more then we had planned. Unfortunately Bruce, Susan and Dean caught a virus somewhere along the way and were in need of some bed rest.

 

     After too long in Mandalay, we arrived in the small town of Kalaw at 2:30 in the morning, via a 7 hour bus trip. We had a great room and thankfully it came with a heater as the temperature seemed near freezing. We had gained some elevation with the drive and at night it was down right cold. We spent a couple days in Kalaw enjoying the fresh air and friendly locals. We found a couple markets that were purely a travelers dream. They were filled with fresh produce from the surrounding villages. The locals dressed in their own traditional clothing, no t-shirts or blue jeans. It was a Myanmar delight! And a sight we had hoped to see. We jumped on a morning bus for a quick two hour ride to Inle Lake. It was a small bus, filled with people and luggage, the only things missing were goats and chickens!

The little boy holding the baby picked flowers for our hair. He was eager to introduce us to his family.

Laundry drying in the sun.

     We were excited to get to Inle Lake as we had heard there was a lot of things to do. We decided to spend our first afternoon at a winery just outside of town.  We rented some peddle bikes and made our way there on dusty roads lined with sugar cane fields. Along the way, Bruce's chain broke. To our delight, two young boys appeared out of a sugar cane field and decided to take it upon themselves to fix it. They flipped the bike over and worked the situation through until the chain (temporarily) was fixed. Bruce gave them a tip for their service and they were quite happy. The Red Mountain Winery sat atop a hill and overlooked the grape fields and lake. It was a great way to spend an afternoon.  Two bottles of Late Harvest wine later we made our way back to town. Dean traded bikes with Bruce and sure enough, half way home, the chain broke again. Susan and Dean switched bikes and with a small cord, Dean was able to tow her back to town.

The sweet "mechanics" who fixed our bike.

Enjoying a few samples before settling on our favorite.

       We spent a full day out on the lake and were very glad that we wheeled and dealed well enough to bring an English speaking guide with us. She was a petite lady and we enjoyed her company and knowledge of the area. Inle Lake is known as the 'Hallmark photo opp.' of Myanmar and it lived up to it's reputation. We were all blown away with the beauty of the scenery and at how the locals have adapted and thrived on the lake. From the one legged rowing fisherman, to the endless floating gardens made from bamboo rafts. Time slipped away as we spent the day in a child like splendor from the curiosity of what was around the next corner. From our fresh fish lunch, to the side trip we made up a river to some 900 year old stupas. The cigar lounge, to stopping on the lake to watch and see how locals fish. Seeing the everyday struggles off what it takes to survive and doing it with such grace was a great way to spend a day.

Unique style of one legged rowing.

A very lovely lady from the Karon Tribe (Long neck tribe)

      We spent Christmas eve apart for a couple hours. Boys against girls, we paired off and went shopping through the local markets in search of Christmas gifts. We enjoyed Christmas morning drinking coffee and opening our new found treasures.  On Christmas day after our gift exchange, Kelly felt some effects of a flu and spent the day in bed. It was a disappointment because we had planned a fancy Christmas dinner of wine and avocado/tomato sandwiches. Despite the fact, the dinner was enjoyed by the healthy three. It was strange being so far away from family on Christmas day in a country that does not celebrate. We all definitely missed home that day. Before we knew it, it was time to head back to Yangon to say goodbye to Bruce and Susan. It sure is amazing how quickly 3 weeks flies by.

Bundled up on Christmas Eve watching a movie.

Christmas morning. Warm scarves :)

     Coming into Myanmar we both had expectations of seeing a way of life different then anywhere we had been. In some ways we were a little disappointed but there were some differences that were a pleasure to see. Western style clothes aren't fully present here. Many people still wear their traditional 'lungi'. A long fabric wrapped around their waist and down to their feet.  A sunblock/make-up paste made from fine sawdust and water is painted on many people's faces'. A mail system we noticed downtown Yangon for the high rises was a piece of string and a clip, running from the balcony to main front door. Many people young and old addictively chew beetle nut. A leaf with lime powder and seasoning and couple chunks of beetle nut seem to be rotting the teeth and turning the mouths red of so many people. The streets are died red with the spit from the chewers. We had seen this in other places we have visited but not to the extent it is in Myanmar. One thing we have learned is that each country is unique and peoples experiences are always different. You cannot compare your experience with others and you need to go learn and see for yourself. We loved having Bruce and Susan with us, it was so nice to spend so much quality time together. We were glad we went, saw and experienced. Although when asked, it will not be atop our list of our favorite countries we have visited this year. Next is India. Controversial and extreme. We are excited to move on and see what it has to offer.