The Yin and The Yang

 As a self proclaimed travelers and not tourists, we are often in search of true experiences and real adventure. Sure anyone can pay some money, get the ticket and take the ride. But we often search out the experiences that can't be bought, or aren't sold everyday. Such an experience that we sought for was with the local indigenous tribes of Borneo. In Kuching it was possible to arrange a day trip to a local longhouse and see the same dog and pony show that they put on everyday. But we desired something different and had heard that if you head up river into the heart of the jungle, the possibility was there. We boarded a boat and crossed part of the South China Sea headed for the town of Sibu. We arrived and quickly bought another ticket to head 5 hours up river and into the heart of the rainforest, to the town of Kapit. With no tour operators to be found in Kapit, the best bet was to make nice with some locals and hopefully get invited to a longhouse. Unfortunately, we arrived on a Monday and had heard that most villagers only come to town on the weekends for the markets. We met a European couple, Chorouk and Kader, on our second day who seemed to be looking for the same adventure as us. We all decided that we should head even further up river to another town and try our luck there.

The yellow boat is the one we took to Belaga

Enjoying the breeze on top of the boat.

 The next day we boarded a boat bound for the town of Belaga. The ride up the river was beautiful. In fact for most of the trip, we all sat on the roof of the express boat. Passing by many longhouse and small villages, it was clear to us that this river was their life line. Unfortunately the state of Sarawak has seen far to much legal and illegal logging. It is being cleared at a rate faster then the Amazon and central Africa combined. Pretty sad considering this is the oldest rainforest on the planet.

A view of a longhouse from the river.

 We arrived in Belaga and had no problem finding a place to stay. It wasn't the best. It had two single beds and came without a sink. But we figured we weren't here for the room. That night we walked around and tried to find a person named Daniel. He was a local who takes travelers to longhouses. With no luck, Kader and Dean went and played soccer with local kids. While Kelly and his wife Chorouk sat and visited with a very drunk local. When we got back to our room Kelly saw a cockroach run under Dean's bed. She said we should pull out the bed and kill it. Dean said he didn't think that was the best idea, we didn't want to know what was under that bed. We watched a show on the laptop then tried to get some sleep. Dean put some music on and tried to fall asleep. Around 12:30 he could hear some clicking sounds, and thought it was strange as his ipod shouldn't be skipping. He used the light on the phone to check where the sound was coming from. Instantly he found three large cockroaches a foot away from his pillow. OMG!!! He grabbed his knife and with a failing attempt, tried to stab them as they ran down the wall and under the bed. We then decided to pull the bed out. It was disgusting and looked as if the bed hadn't been pulled out since the hotel was built. (60 years ago) The walls were rotten and had large holes. So much dirt and garbage. No way Dean could sleep in that bed, let alone sit on it. He grabbed his sleep sack and pillow and went to Kelly's bed. The two of us laid on the single mattress with the lights on wide awake for a long time constantly scanning for the next invasion. Kelly started to dose around 2am, but jumped awake as a cockroach ran across her arm. If we got sleep, it was in half hour spurts, otherwise we just laid there waiting for morning to finally come.

 We went for breakfast with Chorouk and Kader in the morning and found out they had the same kind of night. Although, Kader was more relaxed with the roaches then the three of us were. While eating, a man pulled up on a scooter and introduced himself as Daniel. In a small town word gets around fast if someone is looking for you. He said he had a place we could stay at for the night, and told us what he could arrange for us to do that day. A visit to a local longhouse where a funeral ceremony would be happening, a visit to the local school as well as a visit to a waterfall. We would boat to each place.We were apprehensive as a funeral at home is not something that strangers normally just show up too. But he reassured us by telling us that funerals here, although sad for the loss of the loved one,  are more of a celebration of life than just a day of sadness. He promised that we would be welcomed as long as we went with him. We all agreed, then went to check out of our worst hotel to date as fast as possible. We dropped our bags at Daniels Guest House and made our way to his boat. We stopped along the way to buy some whiskey and beer for the families at the longhouse. Along with some candies, cookies, pens and pencils for the school children. Daniel had already purchased some other gifts of rice, cooking oil and sugar for us to bring.

Waiting to get on the boat with our hats to block the sun.

We made our way up river and saw a procession of boats going across the river towards a graveyard. Daniel explained that there were actually two funerals happening that day. And what we were seeing was the burial part of this ceremony. As we continued, we saw objects and food floating down the river. Daniel told us that after the body of a deceased person is taken from the village to be buried, all his possessions and some food are placed in the river so he does not enter his next life with nothing. It was nice having a guide who spoke good English and who was so knowledgeable.

 We continued our trip up river to the longhouse and docked the boat. Together, with our gifts, we trudged up the muddy bank to the longhouse. We were in awe when we entered at just how long and unique the house really was. Immediately we were introduced to the sister of the man who had passed. We presented her with our gifts and were told (through Daniel translating) that we were very welcome and that she was happy that we could come and share the day with her and her family. It was an odd feeling to be welcomed so generously by a women who only moments later started weeping uncontrollably.

Inside the longhouse.

 We then partook in shots of the whiskey that we brought (which burned something fierce going down) before we sat on the floor to join in the feast. Kelly and Chorouk felt slightly out of place as it was only men sitting and eating. Daniel assured them that they were welcome as the men and all guests eat together, male or female. As we ate the women in the kitchen consumed the whole flat of beer we brought, which we found amusing. We tried to soak in what was going on around us. Often we would hear people burst into tears, which only seemed the natural thing to do at a funeral. (in fact we would be lying if at moments we didn't well up as well) While at the same time others would be laughing and smiling and of course drinking and smoking. After we ate, we were invited inside the house to look around. It was here that Dean got a chance to try "Betel nut." A nut that is wrapped in a leaf and after you chew and suck on it for a while it becomes a mild stimulant with a deep red juice. Many locals chew it and this is what causes their teeth and mouth to turn red.

The feast prepared for the funeral.

A lady preparing the Betel nut.

Dean excited to try the Betel Nut with our guide Daniel.

 We then witnessed the ceremony of the body being moved to the boat. The coffin was taken off the alter that it was on. (apparently the body sits there for 1 week before it is actually buried) and placed onto two long pieces of bamboo. Men line up along the bamboo and carry the body down to the boats. While drums and chanting and a long procession of the deceased loved ones follow. Once the body is placed in the boat and starts it's way down river, 2 gun shots are fired. Despite the fact that we knew the gun was going to be shot, we all jumped anyway. It was during this very emotional time for the family and friends, that we truly realized what a unique and special moment this was. We never imagined that we would have an opportunity to witness and partake in such a personal moment for so many people. When the body was gone and the mans belongings had to been put in the river, it was almost as if the few hours prior had not happened. Many people came to chat and meet us and take pictures with us. Even the chief came to welcome us and to tell us how happy he was that we were able to come and visit. It was soon time to leave and we all boarded back onto our boat and headed down river, this time to the school.

Bringing the coffin to the boat.

The coffin being brought down river to be buried.

In a longhouse near the school

A man weaving a fishing net

The school was situated near two small villages that we walked through and got to tour. We handed out many cookies and treats to all the kids and adults in the longhouses and had an opportunity to visit with them. When we finally reached the school we were very excited. We were told that the school was a boarding school and not only were the children educated here, they lived here as well. All coming from various villages along the river.  We could see all the children grinning, waiting for us patiently. We played some memory games with them. Telling them our names and where we were from. Then mixing ourselves up and quizzing them. They were really good. Of course, being awarded with cookies and candies. We then had the opportunity for them to quiz us, we failed miserably. No cookies and candies for us.  Before we knew it, the daylight began to disappear. It was getting late and the day was ending quicker than we had wanted it too. We said goodbye to the school children and headed back up river. Sadly, the rain decided to come and we were unable to go to the waterfall. It was a busy day though and we all felt overly satisfied with what we had just experienced and seen.

Daniel handing out candies and cookies.

We slept well that night and woke early to board a 4x4. It would take us through the mountains down a logging road to our next destination, Miri.  The drive was bumpy and we won't lie, caused a little bit of motion sickness. Despite this, the scenery was gorgeous and it was here that we saw a vicious looking cobra crossing the road. Almost putting on a show for us it seemed, arching its neck and flaring its large hood. (around 5 feet long) Kelly hates snakes but it was a sight we never imagined to see. Unfortunately, we did not have our camera accessible.

Saying goodbye to Daniel and the lady that worked for him.

After a few days both feeling sick in Miri, we head by plane tomorrow to Mulu National Park. We are excited to see the largest cave cavern in the world. It is said that it could house 40 Boeing 747's without their wings overlapping. Pretty exciting!! Should be a great 3 days of exploring in the great outdoors.